Japanese Hair Straightening: A Complete Guide
To all the enthusiastic ones who love glossy, straight, shiny, and model-style hair, Japanese Hair Straightening treatment (a.k.a. Thermal Reconditioning or Thermal Retexturing) is no fancy name. Japanese hair straightening technique is a method that straightens all the hair strands permanently using a specially made chemical solution for this purpose.
While several chemical solutions are available for Japanese hair straightening treatment, we at Westport Hair & Co prefer using Liscio Crystal Cream by Milbon, one of the top 100 beauty brands in the world. The Liscio Crystal contains Ammonium Thioglycolate, which the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) report certifies as a safe agent for hair treatments.
Some of the other chemical compounds used in Japanese hair straightening technique are the following:
More crucial information about these ingredients can be found here in the 2021 Report of Safer Consumer Products by the California Department of Toxic Substance Control (DTSC). And now since you know the basic introduction, let me take you through this in-depth tour of Japanese Hair Straightening Treatment; history, how it is done, its benefits, and some cons as well. Let’s begin!
How Japanese Hair Straightening Treatment Started
After scouring through lots of relevant websites and articles, I was able to trace the earliest origins of the Japanese Hair Straightening System. It was first originated in Japan by the well-known hair stylist Yuko Yamashita; hence, came to be known as the Yuko System back in 1988. So, in a nutshell, Ms. Yuko Yamashita is the inventor of what soon came to be known as the Japanese Hair Straightening.
Yuko Yamashita gradually developed her straightening technique during the early 90s, first from being a semi-permanent solution, to a more permanent one for natural and frizzy hair. In 1994, after making her method successful in Japan, Yuko partnered with a Japanese health firm Phiten (Phi-ten), which took this Japanese straightening method from its native land and introduced it in Europe and North America.
Likewise, the Yuko System for hair straightening became popular on both sides of the Atlantic; hence, we now call it the Japanese Hair Straightening Treatment.
So, in a very basic manner, I have tried to convey a short history of the Japanese hair straightening technique. I am very thankful to the Zoltan Texture Expert since I got the most detailed historical information about this hair straightening technique from their article.
Complete Procedure of Japanese Hair Straightening
The Japanese hair straightening treatment involves a systematic procedure. I will detail the basics of each step here, which I follow in my hair salon, along with the chemical solution, tools, and hacks that help achieve great results.
Chemical Application:
The major chemical solution used in this hair-straightening technique is either Cysteine or Ammonium Thioglycolate. Cysteine is a non-essential amino acid that is a major ingredient of the protein Keratin and works as a hair-strengthening and straightening natural substance.
Scientific research has approved cysteine as a viable solution for hair straightening and is largely used by hair experts and salons worldwide. Cysteine-based hair straightening treatments yield permanent results, meaning your hair cannot revert to its natural frizzy state until the new ones outgrow them.
Ammonium Thioglycolate is also a major chemical, like Cysteine, used in permanent hair straightening products. According to the latest study conducted by Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) in 2007, Ammonium Thioglycolate is considered safe for use in hair straighteners, hair dyes, styling products, and permanent waves. However, CIR has given some stern recommendations, according to which if Ammonium Thioglycolate-based products are used, they won't cause any side effects. These recommendations are as follows:
Ammonium Thioglycolate should not have concentrations of more than 15.2%
Contact with skin should be at the most minimal levels
It should not be used excessively and needs to be done by a certified professional
Although other chemical solutions are also available in the market, as I mentioned above, Cysteine and Ammonium Thioglycolate hair straightening comes highly regarded and considered safe by pundits in both scientific and hair-expert circles.
Over here at Westport Hair & Co, we use the Liscio Crystal Straightening System for Japanese straightening. Liscio straightening creams and solutions are the elites in the world of straightening techniques, and they are 100% formaldehyde-free. Plus, they can only be done by a Milbon-certified practitioner (which is your very own Dania 😊).
Moving on, we apply the solution for at least 15 minutes. However, depending on the hair type, color, and biochemistry, the application time can be as long as one hour or more. After successfully finishing this initial step, it is now time for the next step in the process.
(Bonus: here is a video I created some time ago in which I am personally explaining all the steps involved 😊)
(Figure 1: What is Liscio Straightening Treatment | Westport Hair & Co’s YouTube Channel)
Conditioning:
Conditioning comes after the application of the chemical solution. After the chemical is applied for a certain time, it must be deep-washed via conditioning treatment afterward. This is a very crucial part of the Japanese hair straightening treatment because proper conditioning is a must to effectively rinse all the chemical solutions applied to your hair.
If anything is left sticking behind, or the solution is applied for a longer period than it ought to be, it can produce an undesired result instead. So, your stylist must need to be a good expert to know the delicate time balance – one of the many reasons to choose a certified professional always!
Different hair salons use different types of conditioners, but there is one thing common in all of them; they will be specialized conditioners for the treatment and from reputed brands. You see, the deep conditioning technique that is used in hair straightening is nowhere near to generic conditioners and conditioning that most people do at home while showering.
Conditioners that are made specifically for this purpose will always have such attributes as an anti-freeze solution, deep cleansing, keratin conditioning, etc. Some of the well-known brands in this category are TRESEmme, Garnier, Sephora, Moroccanoil, and many others.
Therefore, whenever booking a Japanese hair straightening session with any hair salon, be sure to check their products first and ask your stylist about them; see their product shelves, and check their certifications as well. After conditioning is done and the chemical solution is completely rinsed off, it is now time to straighten hair via straightener (or hair) iron.
Hair Straightening:
This is the part where the expertise, experience, and skills of your stylist will be tested. Hair straightening can be done in two ways: Blow-drying or Flat-ironing. It depends on your stylist which one of these two tools they will use, but based on my knowledge and experience in the hair and beauty industry, most hair salons generally go for flat-ironing via hair iron rods.
At Westport Hair & Co., we also generally prefer flat-ironing hair in most Japanese hair straightening treatments. The reason flat-ironing is so favored in hair straightening? Well, as compared to blow-drying, a flat-iron rod keeps hair as straight as possible.
The process goes something like this: After conditioning, a flat iron is applied to small sections of hair to delicately and sufficiently straighten them. Various brushes and combs specifically made for this process are also used.
A hair straightening procedure can take at least a couple of hours to properly finish. However, depending on the expertise, tools, and quality of the procedure, the time will vary according to each hair salon/stylist.
Neutralizing:
Finally, you will reach the last stage of the Japanese hair straightening treatment when it comes to neutralization of the hair. This is again a specific hair cream that is applied throughout your locks to maintain the delicate balance between hair and scalp’s pH levels.
Neutralizer is a must in Japanese hair straightening and it is generally applied for at least 10 minutes to complete its pH balancing process. But again, you must keep in mind that different hair salons may use different approaches, solutions, and tools for Japanese straightening, so time and application may vary accordingly. The estimations I have given above are the most general ones, and which I also follow at my hair salon.
Just like the exclusive Liscio chemical solution we use at the beginning of the procedure; we also use the neutralizing agent made by the same Milbon-certified Liscio brand for an effective ending. Because only two steps in the entire Japanese straightening process require chemical input, it is of utmost importance to utilize the best quality available to minimize any side effects as much as possible.
With this step, we conclude the Japanese hair straightening process. Now, let me take this opportunity to highlight some more aspects and important information about this hair straightening technique so you will have the minimum amount of questions/confusion when you visit a hair salon next time😊
What Benefits Japanese Hair Straightening Offers
Before delving into the cons`, I would first like to share some direct benefits of this hair straightening treatment (or what is the point in reading the entire process then😉). So, here we go on the beneficial ride!
Pin-straight Hair:
It is no wonder that Japanese hair straightening makes your manes quite pin-drop straight. Compared to other straightening solutions, such as Keratin straightening, Japanese hair straightening employs a variety of methods to straighten hair.
There are chemical, heating, and specific straightening tools involved here which ends up giving you a model-style sleek, shiny, and on-point straightened hair. And not to mention the longer amount of time it takes as compared to all other treatments.
It's Permanent:
While most of the other hair straightening solutions do last from a couple of weeks to a few months, none of them offers such robust and irreversible straightening as Japanese straightening. Once done, you can rest assured that your hair will not lose its pin-straightening, not even in a single hair strand, for at least 6 months.
So, it is a permanent straightening treatment that only wears off when the straightened hair is outgrown by the new natural ones. This should take at least 6 months to a few more to completely wear off.
Shine & Gloss at Its Best:
Japanese straightening offers the best of glossy straight hair. All the models and celebrity hair that you dream of every night are mostly the result of Japanese hair straightening, even if not all use the same technique.
Every hair strand will not only look quite straight and sleek but display almost perfect gloss and shine. Once done, don’t be afraid to call a photographer and have a session with your newly styled beautiful hair.
Even Works on Colored Hair:
This is another great aspect of Japanese hair straightening treatment: It works on both natural and chemically-colored hair. To say it in a very ‘family way,’ it can be applied equally well on both virgin and dyed hair, without having to worry about dissimilar results in the end.
And now, as a fair reviewer and information provider, I must also update you on some of the downsides Japanese hair straightening has.
What Are the Downsides to Japanese Hair Straightening
It Can Still Damage Hair:
Unfortunately, like with all other chemical-based hair treatments, this too has some consequences as well. The use of chemicals to straighten hair and a careful application on almost every strand of your mane will leave them somewhat dry and sensitive to heat.
However, the chemical reaction can be reduced to as little as possible if the treatment is done in the right way, with a good-quality straightening solution, and by a certified practitioner. That is why I use Milbon’s Liscio straightening agents whenever doing this treatment.
It Is Costly:
Make no mistake about it! Japanese hair straightening is a sophisticated and time-consuming procedure, and that is why, it is costly. A general price ratio for Japanese hair straightening falls between $500 to $900 per treatment.
This is just a standard estimate for a standard hair salon or stylist; considering a locally popular salon or a stylist, the cost may rise further. So, any of my valuable readers considering Japanese hair straightening must keep the cost in mind before proceeding.
Not for Thin Hair:
While this form of hair straightening technique doesn’t discriminate at all, it just isn’t made for naturally thin hair. People with very thin hair (or weak hair) will end up suffering severe hair damage because the thin follicles (Trichorrhexis nodosa) just cannot endure this in-depth straightening method.
If you persist, the result will possibly be the worst-case scenario: your hair will either become too brittle or fall off in huge quantities. Of course, none of my valued readers would want to face this scenario, right?
It Requires Good Maintenance:
Although, once done correctly, Japanese straightening remains intact for at least 6 months. However, the recipient of the treatment had to do their maintenance continuously to keep the costly treatment in shape and sound.
So, how to care for your hair after Japanese hair straightening? Let me highlight to you some of the most important points here:
You must avoid direct sunlight on your hair, excessive heat, and swimming in chlorinated waters.
According to Kei Hirata, director of Three Degrees Salon NYC, clients should not wash their hair for at least three days after having the treatment. The reason for this is that the chemicals will take time to fully integrate and do their magic into the very core of the hair, and washing them will disrupt this process.
Deep conditioning once a week is important in a post-Japanese straightening hair care routine. And you should only go for conditioners that are specifically made for chemically-treated hair. Some of the best brands in this niche are TRESemme, Olaplex, Sebastian, and Moroccanoil.
Avoid hairstyles that are tight and exert pull on your hair. Giving tension or force to straightened hair may cause breakage. Some of the hairstyles you should avoid are braids or tight ponytails, just to name the two popular ones.
So, these are some of the most obdurate things to consider when going for Japanese hair straightening. Therefore, make sure you are willing to make some effort to keep your perfect straight, and glossy hair remains so for the next few months.
Other Hair Straightening Treatments Compared to Japanese Straightening
There are a few other hair straightening treatments available as well. These are Keratin straightening and the Brazilian Blowout treatment. I will give you a brief about each one of them and how they compare to the Japanese straightening.
Japanese Straightening vs Keratin Straightening:
Before the popularity and advent of Japanese straightening, Keratin was the pen-ultimate hair straightening procedure. Keratin hair straightening treatment is a chemical smoothing procedure that detangles frizzy/curly hair and gives it a straight and glossy look.
It can only be done by a certified and professional hair stylist (always remember this) and is a salon-based treatment. Keratin straightening involves your hair being infused with a natural protein known as Keratin, which is also found inside your body. There is a chemically-made Keratin hair supplement involved in this procedure.
Once the supplement is applied, it is sealed into the hair shaft via the heating process. The treatment generally lasts between one to 3 hours and its effect for up to 3 months at the least. So, how does it compare with Japanese straightening?
Well, Keratin itself is not at all harmful, but most Keratin products out there usually contain Formaldehyde, a colorless toxic gas that can inflict some serious short-term and long-term health issues whenever it encounters your skin, eyes, or breath.
Some short-term risks can be nausea, vomiting, irritation, chest pain, rashes, etc. Long-term effects can be as harmful as developing cancer, asthma, chronic dermatitis, and migraine, according to the FDA. Due to these risks, the Japanese straightening treatment is widely considered far safer than the Keratin one. However, if you are an ardent fan of Keratin straightening, then make sure you always go to a certified hair stylist for the treatment and should look for in-salon Keratin products that are formaldehyde-free.
Japanese Straightening vs Brazilian Blowout Straightening:
Brazilian Blowout is another hair straightening technique, that also uses Keratin to straighten the hair, but the procedure is somewhat different from Keratin straightening. So, liquid Keratin is applied to your hair which bonds easily and creates a protective layer around each strand, eradicating frizziness and sealing the cuticles.
Once the liquid application is done, the hair is blow-dried, straightened, rinsed, and then blow-dried again. The blow-drying combined with the heating process with the straightener bonds the chemical solution to each hair strand, and the process is finally done.
As compared to Keratin straightening, the Brazilian Blowout uses some ingredients, such as acai berry, camu camu, and annatto seeds that are indigenous to Brazil – hence the name Brazilian Blowout. This briefly explains the origins of Brazilian Blowout, but your question here remains to be answered: Is Brazilian Blowout safe compared to Japanese hair straightening?
Well, again the main culprit here is the Formaldehyde. As noted clearly in this FDA article on hair smoothing products, hair smoothing, and straightening products that contain Formaldehyde above the recommended level, which is 0.1 ppm, makes them quite injurious to health.
On the other hand, Japanese hair straightening product’s major chemical component is Cysteine, which is an amino acid and is not at all harmful. Specially Milbon’s certified Liscio brand, which we use for Japanese straightening, is one of the most recommended brands in the world. Even if an Ammonium Thioglycolate formulated product is used, it is still far safer than a formaldehyde-based product.
This is not to say that all Brazilian Blowout products are harmful. The thing you must ensure is to have a clear guideline on the product label, especially if it contains chemical compositions like formaldehyde, paraform, methanol, formic aldehyde, and formalin. All you need to do is steer clear of the products that contain these chemical compounds and go for those that are mostly organic and include indigenous Brazilian ingredients.
Conclusion
And so, I suppose there is not much left to say or describe about the Japanese hair straightening treatment here. I tried my best to provide every bit of information about Japanese straightening, and I hope I have succeeded in solving most of your questions, concepts, and expectations about this amazing hair straightening technique.
This narrative – IN NO WAY POSSIBLE – degrades any other straightening techniques mentioned apart from Japanese hair straightening, but the only goal here is to guide my readers about which one has the most benefits (based on scientific studies). The final decision in taking any kind of hair treatment always rests upon you, our valuable readers; we are just here to help😊.
So, next time you decide to have a hair straightening treatment, especially the Japanese one, make sure to visit this guide (and us too 😊).
